Port #21: Hurry Up to Hold Up...

Great Loop II Date: 9/11/2014

Day #42 (Thursday): 79 miles (1190 total miles)

Locks: 1 (8 total locks)

Port #21: Peoria, IL

Early morning departures are the rule especially when locks are involved.  My routine follows:

• ·         Get up at 4:45 AM, get dressed and ready for the day
• ·         If we are at a dock, put the already made coffee in the thermos after pouring my travel cup as well as Todd’s and start the second pot.
• ·         If we don’t have dockside power available (at anchor or a free dock):

o   Start the generator

o   Turn on the heat and warm up the boat (it’s been COLD)

o   Turn on the coffee pot

• ·         While the first or the second pot is perking, go online to:

o   Check the Lock Queue

o   Check the Lock Status

o   Check the river flood status

o   Check my emails

• ·         I may or may not set up the crockpot with dinner for that evening.  On this day we planned to anchor so I set the crockpot up with beef vegetable soup.

In the meantime, Todd is up and dressed, checks his emails and the weather.  He sets up his computer with our second navigation program.  I let him know what I’ve found online regarding barges and tows.  The second pot of coffee is done and goes into the thermos.  Headsets go on, lines come off and we are on our way sometimes with Loopers leaving the same day, sometimes ahead of Loopers staying in port.  That’s dependent on conversations and decisions made the night before.

We all monitor VHF radio Channels 16 (Coast Guard Channel & some bridges), 12 & 14 (tows), 13 (some bridges) and 68 (pleasure craft where we can talk to each other).  There’s not a lot of chatter on any of those channels, only essential information is passed along.

There were so many Loopers in Ottawa, 6 of us decided to leave at the crack of dawn.  Three were ‘go fast’ boats and 3 of us were ‘slower’ boats.  We had one lock just 20 miles away at Starve Rock.  No barges were coming or going as far as we could see on the Lock Queue.  When we arrived at the lock, the lockmaster was filling the lock and we ended up tying up to the approach wall.  I’ve found that the early morning lockmasters love a nice cup of hot coffee and this lockmaster was no different.  As soon as all the boats on our side of the lock had lines for the lock down, I had a ‘go cup’ ready.  He grabbed it as he headed around to the other side of the lock to hand lines to the last two boats.  This gesture seems to keep life in the locks very upbeat.

Entering the Starved Rock Lock

Once the lock down was completed, the ‘go fast’ boats were on their way to Peoria, IL.  We planned to go to Henry and anchor, as did two other boats.  This was another cloudy, grey day with periods of drizzle.

The day was filled with more barges, a huge number of white pelican sightings as well as a bald eagle and red tail hawk sighting.  Many of the pictures were of things we had seen on the last Loop.  We made good time so by the time we got to Henry and we decided to go on to Peoria, as did the other two boats.

We were close enough to get this shot of two of the many bald eagles we saw.

We're never without tows and barges.

The old lock wall in Henry, IL where we tied up in 2010.

This is one of the smaller flocks of white pelicans.

We heard one of the boats ahead of us mention that the Nina and Pinta tall ships were in Peoria Lake on their way to the Municipal Docks where we intended to stay.  The Pinta had hard grounded on a sandbar.  A tug was busy working to free her and did so before we arrived.  Both ships were docked by the time we got to Peoria.

What a nice surprise to have the Nina and the Pinta as dockmates!

Because of the flooding Illinois and Mississippi Rivers, we ended up staying in Peoria over the weekend.  There were no available docks in the ports down river.  Loopers were backed up all the way to Chicago and we were caught in the middle.

We made the best of it by going to the Catepillar Museum and the Riverfront Museum on Friday.  Saturday we went to the huge Farmer’s Market, toured the Nina and Pinta tall ships and watched football.  I got a surprise text from our best friends, Pete and Nancy.  They were on their way to Wisconsin and decided to detour to Peoria to see us.  We had a wonderful Saturday evening and Sunday morning with them, as well.

This is one huge earth mover!

Look at the size of those tires.

Todd was trying to run a simulation with a backhoe.

This is friendship!  We went to breakfast with Pete and Nancy.  Their car looked like our guest room.

Todd got our bikes down Sunday and we had a nice ride through the downtown area.  There were many different metal art sculptures around the Municipal Auditorium and Conference Center.  Past that we got into an older part of town that seemed a little run down.  Our instinct was to turn around and head back to the dock.

Dedication to the underground railroad.

President Lincoln at the top of the statue.

That evening we all celebrated Sue’s birthday (Andante) at Joe’s Crab Shack.  Then it was early to bed followed by another early morning departure.

Port #20: A Looper Convention in Ottawa (IL)...

Great Loop II Date: 9/7/2014

Day #38 (Sunday): 45 miles (1111 total miles)

Locks: 3 (7 total locks)

Port #20: Ottawa, IL

When the clock went off at 4:45AM, we were more than happy to arise.  The Joliet wall has not changed from our stay in 2010.  Although the characters in the park seem to be harmless, there is no lighting along the wall.  The larger barges coming by made us consider our vulnerability, as well.  There was comfort in the numbers of boats on the wall with us.  Also at that point in the river, the curve did push the barges to the far side away from us.  All the same, we left with no sorrow.

Todd called ahead to the Brandon Lock and it was empty.  The lockmaster told us to come on down.  As 8 boats began pulling away from the wall, the railroad bridge ahead of us began coming down.  None of us could get under that bridge.  Todd called the bridge and the manager said a train was coming and the bridge would be closed for the next 10 minutes or so.  All 8 boats motored around until the train passed.

Luckily there were no barges coming either immediately up-bound or down-bound to delay us in our first lock of the day.  There were so many boats, we had to raft two by two to fit everyone into the lock.  Once we were out of the lock, OB fell behind fairly quickly.  We motor a lot slower than most for two reasons: it saves diesel so we visit the pump less frequently than others and it allows us to see more along the way as well as avoid debris in the water.  Further, we knew we wouldn’t be left out of the next two locks since the lockmasters call back and forth between locks to let each other know what’s coming in the way of traffic.  They like to keep the pleasure boats together in a group and will hold the lock as long as it takes to get everyone in.

Three boats ahead of us...

there were actually four boats back there...

...and three here make eleven!

There go the boats in front of us...

...and here come the boats behind us getting ready to pass us.

There's the ever present barges being staged for movement on the river.

More staging.

Part of the adventure is some of the things we see along the way.  It must have been goose hunting season.  The hunting blinds we passed were all habited.  We could see heads peeping out at us as we passed by.  Each blind had a dozen or so goose decoys out.

This was the Taj Mahal of duck-goose blinds along this stretch.  All those 'birds' on the right are his decoys.

This was a boat transformed into a blind.  His decoys are sitting to the left and...

...he actually stood up to look at all of us going by.  The arrow is pointing at him.

Just after the hunting blinds were a huge flock of white pelicans.  Their presence in Illinois is an interesting story, because their normal migration route is well west of here.  As the story goes a group of pelicans wound up in the Illinois River Valley a few years ago.  It is thought a storm pushed them off course. Whatever the reason, they have returned in greater numbers each year. Migration is a learned behavior, and apparently the pelicans have learned the route to a warm winter home goes through Illinois!

The bunched up white birds are the white pelicans.  The birds standing by themselves in the back are egrets.

We had three locks to go through.  This was the second of the three, the Dresden Lock.

We continued to have to raft up in the locks.

Leaving the Dresden Lock.

Oncoming tow.  We were advised by the tow captain to pass on the 'one' which is his port to our port.  I comes from the formality of the captain blowing his horn once (past on my port side) or twice (pass on my starboard side).

This being Sunday and a beautiful, warm early September day, boaters and jet skiers were out in hoards.  We passed long sand beaches along the river full of boats and folks just having fun.  We well understand the need for weekend fun in the working world.  However the busy waterways made us decide not to travel on the weekends during our last Loop.  We had a big reminder on this weekend day.  Unless pushed by a time constraint or incoming weather, we most likely will not travel on the weekends any more.

Boats and jet skis were flying in every direction!

This particular area on the beach was interesting.  There were at least 3 dozen boats beached along this stretch and a party atmosphere was in full swing.  The sign is below.

This part of the beach had it's own sign...only about 100 feet from the sign above.

You may have to click on it to get the full message.

This is only part of 'Trespass Beach',

Next up we passed an old tow converted to a bar and casino, the Katie Hooper.  It looked better when we passed her in 2010.  We wondered if she might be closed now.

Poor ol' Katie Hooper...she needs some work now.

Our AIS as well as listening to the other Loopers ahead of us on the VHF radio let know we were coming upon the tow OMAR.  The tow captain was very friendly and sent us all around on ‘the two’ (his port side, our starboard).  We had no problem with OMAR but the ‘go fast’ boats that were out on this Sunday afternoon were running without abandon.  They cut between us and OMAR.  At times it looked as though they were on a collision course with either Ocean Breeze or OMAR!  Tows such as OMAR pushing barges cannot stop.  A few years ago, a Looper boat was caught in the wake of a tow pushing barges and nearly capsized.  So much damage was inflicted on the boat it could not continue the Loop.

Our last lock of the day was another easy in, easy out.  We were so lucky.  Three locks had the potential to make for an extremely long day if barge traffic was heavy.  Our marina for the night was just around the corner from the lock.  We were in early enough for a big group at Docktails.

Leaving the last of our three locks, the Marseilles Lock.

Ahhh....coming into Heritage Harbor, our marina home for the next three days.

Docktails!

Heritage Harbor is very well run and friendly to Loopers.  The owner found us at the free dock in downtown Ottawa during our 2010 Loop.  He took us to the grocery store, brought us back to our boat and helped us unload groceries.  He impressed us so much with his kind gesture, we decided to stay in his marina during this Loop and forgo ‘free’.  All of the Loopers we were on the Joliet wall with elected to come into Heritage Harbor, as well.

A huge weather front was posed to come through Tuesday and Wednesday.  Our 8 boats grew to 12 and finally to 19.  We had a fantastic potluck Monday evening and fun around the marina bar Tuesday evening.  Wednesday the captains were concerned about the large number of boats collected and how many might leave to go downstream Thursday morning.  They called a meeting to collaborate and assess the looming situation especially with few areas for anchoring or docking in the upcoming 75 miles.  In the end, 5 boats planned to anchor, 4 boats planned to make a run for Peoria, IL and a few boats were considering the Henry Lock Wall.  We were among the anchoring group.

Potluck night!

Breakfast of champions...and Loopers.

Interesting sign at the pool.

Yes, it was warm enough to have docktails at the pool...until the front came through!

The Captains meeting.  It really is wonderful how well Loopers work together to try to make the adventure a positive experience for everyone.  No one wants to be left high and dry with no place to anchor or tie up in a busy river.

A fellow Looper included information in her blog about the importance of barges on the rivers.  I thought it good to bring that information forward to my blog.  Thanks go out to Monica on Untide for her research.  She has a fantastic blog going at http://looping-nz-style.blogspot.com.  Her camera eye is absolutely the best.

Monica captured this sign early in the transit through the Illinois River.  It definitely defines the pecking order in locking.

‘A typical barge carries 1500 tons of cargo, which is 15 times greater than a rail car and 60 times greater than one trailer truck. An average river tow on the Upper Mississippi River is 15 barges consisting of 5 barges tied together and moving 3 abreast. The same load would require a train 3 miles long or line of trucks stretching more than 35 miles. In 1995, 321 million tons of cargos were moved on the Mississippi River. Barges carry many different types of goods with coal, petro-chemical products, and grain constituting most common commodities moved.

Why is a towboat called a towboat when it pushes the barges?
The word "tow" comes from the canal age when a draft animal walking along the bank of the canal pulled a barge. As rivermen gained experience with moving barges, they found that, by lashing barges together and pushing them, they could control the barges better and move more of them. The control was especially helpful when navigating the smaller rivers and tight bends in a river.

What is the size of a barge? 
The standard barge is 195 feet long, 35 feet wide, and can be used to a 9-foot draft. Its capacity is 1500 tons. Some of the newer barges today are 290 feet by 50 feet, double the capacity of earlier barges.

What is the size of a towboat?
Towboats range in physical size from about 117 feet long by 30 feet wide to more than 200 feet long and 45 feet wide. They draft anywhere from 6.5 feet to 9.0 feet. The boat's diesel engine can produce power from a few hundred horsepower to 10,000 horsepower. A few are in excess of that, but not many. The larger boats operated on the Lower Mississippi where the water is free-flowing and wide.

How many barges and towboats are there?
There are approximately 26,000 dry cargo barges, 3,000 tanker barges, and 1,200 towboats operating today.

How many barges are there in a tow?
The average tow has 15 barges, but flotillas can go up to 40 barges, depending on the type of cargo, the river segments being navigated, and the size of the towboat. Smaller tributaries, such as the Alabama River, can support only a four-barge tow because of the meandering nature of the river and varying width of the river itself. In addition, the Alabama's locks are only 84 feet wide and 600 feet long.

Port #19: Bridging Our Way to Joliet...

Great Loop II Date: 9/6/2014

Day #37 (Saturday): 36.5 miles (1066 total miles)

Locks: 1 (4 total locks)

Port #19:  Joliet, IL

The clock rang its happy sound at 4:45AM.  Charlie and I got up, put the first pot of coffee in our thermos and started the second pot.  With a few sips of Joe on board, Charlie and I headed out the door so he could sniff some grass and stretch his legs.

By the time we came back to OB, Todd was up, dressed, had our route on both navigations systems and was ready to cast off.  Our neighboring boat, Andante, was measuring his height to make sure he could transit under the last fixed bridge on this route.  Once past that railroad bridge, there are no other height restrictions.

We talked with Andante about our plans.  Theirs were the same however they decided to leave a little later.  We cast our lines off and were underway.

The morning air was cool, crisp and dry.  A nice front had come through the evening before and left a good amount of rain.  Wind was minimal and not a factor for us in the river or the locks.  We only had one lock ahead of us, the Lockport Lock.

As we headed down the Calumet River, we passed four boats that were sunk at their docks.  One was at a private dock and three were in a marina that looked abandoned.  There was no information published about this area but it sure looked strange.

Charlie checking out the situation.

Todd busy with Captain's duties.

The tranquil setting of the river.

The Little Calumet River joins the Calumet Sag Channel.

Old locks along the riverside abandoned after new locks were built.

Next on the Calumet Sag Channel was bridge after bridge.  We cleared all of them including the fixed 19 foot bridge.  Also along the way were many barges ready to be staged for transit on the rivers.  A few tows were working the barges.  We found all to tow captains to be very accommodating.

The bridges were close together.  All were high enough to go under without any concern except ONE.

Most of the graffiti was common place, however some was really beautiful.

There even was some graffiti on the rock walls between bridges.

Also, there were some beautiful waterfall spillways in park settings.  They help control the drainage from little creeks and pools off of the Cal-Sag.

This was the last waterfall and where the Cal-Sag joins the Chicago Shipping and Sanitary Canal.

The red arrow is the Chicago Shipping Channel and the green arrow is the Calumet Sag Channel.  Many Loopers never see the Cal-Sag opting to come through Chicago if their height permits.

This was a nice backyard with a ready made retaining wall left over from an old lock wall.

The Chicago Shipping Channel was busier with tows moving barges around.  All of the tow captains were very good to help us get by them safely.

THAT'S the bridge that causes some concern.  When the water levels are up, the clearance may be less than the documented height of 19 feet.  We passed under it with more than 2 feet above the highest part of OB.

My view of the railroad bridge.  Looks frightening but it really wasn't.  We go slow especially in tight spaces.

The famous Fish Barrier signs came into view alerting us to check the status of transit with Channel 16 (USCG).  Todd did so with absolutely no response.  We moved through the 0.7 miles without any problem and no communication on the radio.  I did find it interesting that all the ducks and sea gulls were lined up on the south side of the barrier.  It must tickle their feet so they know not to go further.  Fishing is probably pretty good for them right there since any fish going past that point are supposedly stunned or killed by the electrical current in the water.

The early warning sign before entering the Fish Barrier. This is when a call is made to the USCG on Channel 16.  They didn't respond to our call during this passage nor did they in 2010.  We're beginning to think we don't exist!

The channel leading to the Fish Barrier...with a huge petroleum refinery just before it on the north side.

The barrier starts at this arch.

This is the 0.7 miles worth of electrified water.  There were signs all along like the ones above.

The end...notice the ducks and seagulls all sitting on the other side of the sign.  Either they can read or they've had their toes shocked a few times.

Shortly after the Fish Barrier we were at our only lock for the day, the Lockport Lock.  A barge that had to be brought up-bound in two sections was just completing their lock through.  A down-bound barge and tow were staged to transit next.  The lockmaster asked the tow captain if Ocean Breeze could come through with them.  After a little discussion, the tow captain invited us in alongside.

Just before we were cleared to enter the lock, 5 more Looping boats came to the lock wall.  The lockmaster asked the tow captain if they could lock through as well.  The tow captain felt one was enough.

Lock down was uneventful.  We were held in the lock for almost an hour from the beginning to the point the doors opened and we were given the all clear to leave.  OB was extended a little forward in the path of the lock doors, so the lockmaster did notify us when we could untie from the bollard and back up enough to allow the doors to open completely.

The spillway before the lock.  It controls water levels at the lock.

The tow leaving the lock before the Robert Wagenstall could enter.

There's our lock companion...the Robert Wagenstall with his barges.

This is what Todd sees from the bridge...the lock doors.

This is what I see while keeping us to the lock wall.  That big pin in front of me is a bollard.  It moves up or down with the water as it fills or leaves the lock.  I have to put a line around the bollard and hold it while we go up or down in the lock.

Joliet was just down river from the lock.  We transited the three lift bridges quickly and were at the free park wall to tie up by 2:15PM.  The Loopers behind us were held up by an upbound tow that had to be broken into two sections followed by a down-bound tow that also had to break into two sections.  By the time they entered the Lockport Lock, 10 Looper boats had congregated to make the transit.  They all arrived at the Joliet free wall around 7:30PM.  There were three other boats on the wall besides OB so all hands were on deck to help these tired Loopers tie up.  Needless to say, the free wall was full and it looked like a convoy!

OB tucked in for the night at the Joliet Free Wall.

This 4X4 Barge (4 across and 4 deep=16 barges) and tow came by us around 10PM. He REALLY struggled to manipulate his load at an angle to get positioned for the next bridge one block away.  We watched him for 30 minutes until he finally made way past the bridge.  In 2007 a barge took out 3 pleasure boats along the Joliet wall on the other side of this bridge.  They no longer allow pleasure craft to dock there.  The bend it too tight for barges such as this one.