Great Loop Date: 09.29 & 30.2010 (Wednesday & Thursday): Just a Little Diversion…

Days #48 & 49: 1338.6 total miles (109.7 & 87.3 miles)
Locks: 10 total (today: 0)
Port #22 – Little Diversion Channel; Cape Girardeau, MO
Port #23 – Ohio River Dam #52; Metropolis, IL

When the crew arose, the Mississippi was shrouded in fog. OB would take on a series of tight curves in the river soon after leaving Hoppies. The flotsam had not changed from what we endured Tuesday. With all this in mind, all four boats decided to wait out the fog and start later than the intended 6:30AM cast off.

The captains from Sea Estate, NII Wishin, Windsong and OB gathered in a cluster on the dock. They reviewed the planned course, discussed the dense fog at the first corner just a half mile down river, and enjoyed discussing many other off topics. It was definitely a time to relax before going into the navigational nightmare once more.

Finally just after 9AM the fog lifted and the crews from all four boats began the process of cast off. With the strong current of the Mississippi, we all had docked with our bows upstream. We would have to make a 180 degree turn to head downstream as well as dodge all of the debris that was flowing down the river.

The captains decided it would be best for the last boat in the line to leave first. Sea Estate, who had been last, would be first today. The next to last was NII Wishin’ and would follow after giving sufficient time for Sea Estate to clear the mid-channel. Windsong, the mastless catamaran, would be next and OB would be the caboose.

It wasn’t long before we came to our first upbound barge…then another…then another. I really should have counted barges but they became so usual and so frequent, there was no mystery or magic to them anymore. All of the barge captains were very courteous to us. They did keep us on the outside of all the curves in the river which Fern had told us was a huge no-no. Fortunately we had no problems navigating these turns. The barge tows did kick up a lot of debris and send it into our paths.

Around 11AM we were navigating through a debris field. OB hit a big log that couldn’t be avoided in a last minute maneuver. The log hit the bow with a big thud! I ran through the boat to listen for it to come under the props. I saw it leave from the starboard side but didn’t feel any shift or shudder. Todd and I both hoped there was no damage as OB marched on without complaint.

I continued scouring the shoreline for navigational markers. I did discover why I couldn’t find them the day before. Most of the time, the markers are obscured by trees and bushes. It was like trying for find Waldo! I became more proficient at picking them out and finally felt like the firstmate once again.

Mid-day we passed the ‘Home of Popeye’. Chester, IL Boat Club has a huge sign testifying to that fact calling Chester ‘Popeye City’. Connie mentioned this little tidbit over the VHF radio. She also said we would pass the home of Superman the next day!

The current on the Mississippi continued to pick up throughout the day and the debris seemed less. We still had to play dodge ‘em but managed to avoid any more encounters. At the close of the day, we entered Little Diversion Channel just off the Mississippi River and downstream from Cape Girardeau, MO. There are no ports along this stretch of the Mississippi, the Ohio and the beginning of the Tennessee Rivers.

OB made good anchor just as the sun was setting. It became a beautiful, starry, and quiet night. Sitting in this little pool, it was impossible to know we were just a quarter mile or so off of the Mighty Mississippi.

The next morning, OB’s crew was up and at it before dawn. Early rising was becoming more of a habit than any of us enjoyed. We needed to get the final stretch of the Mississippi behind us. The Ohio River lay in wait.

Todd maneuvered OB out of Little Diversion just as the sun was above the horizon. We continued to run in the pecking order of the day before. The sun on the water made navigating frustrating but somehow we missed any debris.

Before noon, we were rounding the turn into the blue Ohio River. Todd had learned some years ago there was a distinct demarcation between the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers. He was not disappointed. Unfortunately this confluence is a huge staging area for barges traveling both rivers. A barge crossed in front of us and muddied up the line before we could take a picture at the actual crossing. I did get many pictures before we crossed into the Ohio.

Although the Ohio was much cleaner and only had a stray log once in a while, the scenery continued to be about the same. We passed many barges. The river banks were heavily forested and beginning to show fall color. OB continued to putter along slower now because we were moving upstream instead of downstream.

Navigating became more difficult. Todd had electronic charts but we had no paper charts. We had searched everywhere for the Army Corp of Engineer charts for the Ohio and the Tennessee Rivers. There were none to be found. Other Loopers have found the same problem.

Also, now that we were going upstream, the buoys reversed sides with red nuns on the right now and green cans on the left. While we were on the Illinois and the Mississippi we were downbound with the red nuns on our left and green cans on our right. Confused yet? You’re not alone. It is something we have to stay aware of in order to stay in the channel and in water of sufficient depth.

We passed by Dam and Lock 53 which used to be functional. It has been torn out. A new dam and lock complex, the Olmstead Dam and Lock has been under construction to replace Dam and Lock 53 and 52. It is a huge undertaking with big cranes and equipment spread out over nearly a mile.

By sunset we reached our second anchorage in as many days. This time we anchored in the Ohio River, off of the main channel near Metropolis, IL and Lock & Dam 52. Todd and I were a bit nervous. There was a stiff breeze from the northwest and a good current from the southeast. The current was stronger. Sea Estate and NII Wishin’ had gotten a good bite with their anchors and encouraged us along. I used a 10# mushroom anchor at the end of my 50 foot of chain and before the rode of line. The fast setting Delta took a good grab, the mushroom kept the chain low to the river floor and I used about 50 foot of rode to help us stay put.

The winds died out at sunset. We had another peaceful night at anchor. I was surprised I slept so soundly when I had been concerned at the beginning. We are becoming comfortable with each experience in the adventure.

Oh yes, and then there is Charlie…the ‘I’ll never do my duty on plastic grass’ dog. After twenty six hours of holding on, giving me the ‘I need to set foot on land’ signal multiple times and feeling totally miserable, Charlie marched out to the plastic patch of green and went for a long, long time. We were so excited and he was amazed how easy it was. After that first tentative ‘squirt’, he now marches out to HIS grass and relieves himself whenever the need arises. Charlie has become a boat dog!



We were seeing more beautiful limestone bluffs and hints of fall colors...when we could look.

 

The barges get larger and larger...this one is 5X6 or 30 strong.



These are empty containers...still daunting on the curves in the river.

Look at that wake!  Those weren't fun.  Neither was the wood you can see floating in the lower left corner.

The current grew stronger the further we traveled down the Mississippi.

Popeye's home.  Somehow it doesn't look like it did in the cartoons.  He even had Dish TV!

This is 'Where's Waldo'...where is the starboard daymarker?

Okay...a little closer look.

There it is !!!

So much coal is loaded on these barges in this country.  Do we really think we will be free of fossil fuel someday?

This one is 28 barges strong...4X6+1X4 !

This port day marker was on the side of a dead tree...soon to be flotsam.

Coming into Cape Girardeau, the cliffs became more severe and beautiful.

Our anchorage off the Mississippi in Little Diversion Channel...just southeast of Cape Girardeau, MO.

NII Wishin, Sea Estate and Windsong waking up after a quiet night at anchor.

This grain barge was being loaded as we passed.  Does it look a little heavy on one end?

Another 'Where's Waldo?' looking for a starboard (green) daymarker.

There it is !  Really sticks out doesn't it?

How about this one?  It's a little easier.

Yes, there it is.

The Mighty Mississippi meets the Ohio...look at the marked difference between the two!

The line between the two was a little stirred up by the barge that passed by.

NII Wishin hits the Ohio...notice we are now going against the current.

Of course, there were barges everywhere.  This is at Cairo, MO, a huge staging area for barges.

This is the new Olmstead Lock and Dam under construction.  It will replace two very old ones on the Ohio.

Another coal powered Power Plant.

This barge was headed downstream in the wind.  Looks at the waves he's breaking through as he goes.

Sea Estate at anchor in the Ohio River just past the bridge going to Metropolis, IL.

NII Wishin' anchored.  The wind and waves eventually died down.