Great Loop Date 01.24.2011: Doing Marathon...Florida, That Is!

Day #165 - 178 (Monday): 3115.0 total miles (50.8 miles)
Port #72:  Sombrero Dockside Marina; Marathon, FL (Vaca Key)

OB was more than ready to leave Little Shark River and whatever murder occurred during the dark hours of the night.  The crew was glad no one was lost during that part of the great adventure.  We had another long day of travel ahead and we were anxious to get back into the Keys...this time on our big boat, OB.

Todd and I have been coming to the Florida Keys for winter vacations since 1994.  We both discovered early on that we have Conch attitude.  We like the laid back lifestyle of the Key residents (nicknamed Conchs).

Our first mini-adventures were in Key West, staying in various Bed and Breakfasts.  We flew in and drove in but never boated in.  Now we were finally on our way by sea, choosing to stop in Marathon on Vaca Key at Mile Marker 50, half way down the Keys to Key West.

The trip from Little Shark River was less than comfortable with 1 to 2 foot chop smacking us on the port beam all the way.  The day was sunny and the closer we came to Vaca Key, the prettier the water became developing that beautiful greenish blue color we were used to seeing from the road.  Of course, the entire distance was covered with crabpots keeping Auto at rest for much of the trip.

Spotting the Seven Mile Bridge from a distance was much like seeing the Rocky Mountains emerge as we drove west from the Colorado state line!  Our excitement grew as the bridge grew out of the water on the horizon before us.  The clouds gathered graying the sky but not our mood.

Todd and I have driven over the Seven Mile Bridge too many times to remember.  It is just west of Marathon, FL.

This is the first time we've gone under the Seven Mile Bridge!

Though the area has been settled for some time, Marathon is a relatively new city, incorporated in 1999. The city's boundaries extend from the east end of the Seven Mile Bridge (Mile Marker 47) to the west end of Tom's Harbor Bridge (Mile Marker 61). Among the islands found within the city limits are Boot Key, Knight Key, Hog Key, Vaca Key, Stirrup Key, Crawl Key, Little Crawl Key, East and West Sister’s Island, Deer Key, Fat Deer Key, Long Point Key, and Grassy Key.  THAT's a mouthful!  Marathon is the largest city in the Florida Keys.

The name Marathon dates back to the origin of the Florida East Coast Railroad. The name came about by the railroad workers who were working night and day to complete the railway.  Because of the corporate pressure to complete the project as fast as possible, many of the workers complained that "this (the project) is getting to be a real Marathon".  The name was used for the local station along the railroad.

This is the Old Seven Mile Bridge.  It is now used as a walking and biking path...and a fishing pier.  Two spans were taken out of it to allow sailboats and powerboats the size of OB to pass through.  The spans used to be a lift bridge but even the gate house is gone now.  We'd never seen it this close, only seeing it from the new bridge as we drove by.

The new bridge construction was started in 1979 and finished in 1982.  The first time we drove over it was February 1994 when we rented a car in Key West and drove up the Keys to see what we could see.  This is the first time we passed UNDER the Seven Mile Bridge.

NII Wishin followed through the opening of the old Seven Mile Bridge and under the 63 foot high span of the new bridge.

Of course, we continued to navigate around crabpots all the way into Boot Key Harbor!  At least the water was that pretty greenish-blue color we so love in the Keys.

Burdine's Fuel Dock and Tiki Hut on the left is a Marathon favorite.  Just pass Burdine's is the Boot Key Harbor bridge.  It was built in 1960 and closed in 2008 for safety reasons.  It is now called 'the Bridge to No Where'.  Boot Key has no land access and the state is actively working to make it a nature preserve.

It's always nice to see Marathon is selling fuel in the ports we visit...this one being Marathon in Marathon (Florida of course!).

After passing the Boot Key Bridge, the familiar sight of derelicts and full time live-aboards came into view.  The Florida government doesn't differentiate between transients and these bums of the sea.  Loopers and Snowbird boaters that flock to Florida during the winter months have to term themselves as 'extended cruisers' to keep being misunderstood as these folks that let their boats become shanties and eye-sores.

The problem with these boats isn't in the nature of those who dwell in them.  The boats become hazards to navigation and fire hazards.  They break from their flimsy moorings during storms and either run into other boats or run aground.  Worse yet, when the dwellers move on to another boat because their current dwelling has become inhabitable, the derelict boat becomes the problem of the city, county or state to dispose of.

Once past the riff raff of the sea, Boot Key Harbor and the City Moorings appeared.  We had pre-registered for a mooring but they are offered only on a first come, first served basis.  We called in as we passed the bridge and were told the moorings were full.  NII Wishin was able to get the last slip at the City Docks.  We intended to anchor in the mangroves until a mooring became available.  The weather forecast drove us to call Sombrero Dockside to see if they could take us a week earlier than our reservations.  We were relieved to find they had room for us.

Sombrero Dockside is a favorite for Loopers.  We found many folks we had met at Fall Rendezvous as well as along the last 3000-plus miles we had already travelled.  Our arrival prompted immediate afternoon Docktails on Bade Boomer with no less than 7 couples showing up.

Day #166: 01/25/2011 (Tuesday):

Sombrero Dockside is a long row of docks along a busy street that encircles a golf course.  The beach is a mile or so away by bicycle or boat.  Todd and I had checked out Sombrero Dockside last year when we rented our cottage on Little Torch Key.

The restaurant and bar was a hopping place last year however, it is closed this year and life is pretty quiet.  On one hand, Todd had really looked forward to sitting in this waterside setting listening to the nightly bands that used to play here.  I, on the other hand, am enjoying the quiet, laid back atmosphere.  Apparently the owner went bankrupt and the liquor license was lost.  When a new owner took over, the liquor license didn't transfer and is now in litigation.  At least that's the story and Roy, the marina manager, is sticking to it.  He also tells everyone it might be open next week.  The next week never comes....which is fine.

We dropped the dinghy in the water and made way to the City Docks for Hors Devours on NII Wishin.  They had come across a sailboat from their marina in Caseville.  The folks from S/V Simple Pleasure also knew us from Put In Bay and wanted to visit with all of us.  They brought along another couple from the mooring field....that we had met at Cabbage Key.  The coincidence here was Mike, from S/V Stargazer, was a fellow alumnus from Adams State College where Todd received his undergraduate degree.  Such a small world!

Tuesday night at the Hurricane Bar and Grill is $1 Taco Night.  It was such a good deal, none of us could turn it down.  All four couples left NII Wishin and walked to the Hurricane.  L to R: Joan (NII Wishin), Paula Sue (OB), Sharon (Simple Pleasure), Mike and Sandy (Stargazer), Bill (Simple Pleasure), Todd (OB) and Jerry (NII Wishin).



The Hurricane is an interesting little bar and grill with tidbits of this and that all over the place...and no real rhyme or reason.  The one outstanding center piece is this Lego village of Miami Beach, complete with a crowded street of cars.  There must have been some downtime in the early days of the Hurricane for someone to construct such a village.



Outside of the Hurricane and in front of the dive shop next door is this huge fiberglass statue of an underwater scene.  It was pretty both day and night.

Day #167: 01/26/2011 (Wednesday):

We had a pretty good shower Tuesday night.  Wednesday morning, I was pumping the water out of the dinghy when our neighbors mentioned I had a visitor.  I never would have seen Mr. Manatee had they not said something.  He was attracted to the stream of water I was pumping out of the dinghy and I had my back to him.

Mr. Manatee was so friendly...he even let me pet his nose.  I think he just wanted more water.  It's illegal to attract them with fresh water (and bad for them to ingest too much).  As soon as he realized there wasn't going to be anymore water coming his way, he swam lazily out into the channel.  The neighbors told me he has a female cow and baby that also come around under to boats.  We never saw them.

Day #168: 01/27/2011 (Thursday):

Jerry and Joan moved from the City Dock at Boot Key Harbor to Sombrero Dockside.  OB and NII Wishin crews were rejoined for more adventure...now in Marathon, FL.

Charlie is very happy in the Keys.  He's quickly found his sunspot for tanning.

Thursday Todd and I ventured out on our bikes and found St. Columba Episcopal Church.  It's close to the marina by bicycle.

The altar of St. Columba is covered with shells.

Thursday night is $0.25 Wing Night at the Hurricane.  You can guess where we met the same group from Tuesday night...plus Michelle and her dad, George from S/V Fajai.  They are from Montreal and she is taking a year from her collegiate studies in Geology to help her dad in his sailing adventure.

Day #169: 01/28/2011 (Friday):

Three or four Looper couples planned a get together and carry-in buffet for all the Loopers divided among three marinas and the City Moorings in Marathon.

It was so much fun to see folks we'd met at Rendezvous as well as along the way!

The closed Sombrero Dockside Restaurant was the perfect place to have everyone with ample tables and seating.

Day #170: 01/29/2011 (Saturday):

Saturday Todd and I rode our bikes around Sombrero Beach Golf Course.  We wanted to see what the properties in the area looked like and if there were any open houses, our favorite pastime in the Keys.

We found Flamingo Key.  It is surrounded by Sombrero Beach and an island all its own with only one bridge connecting it to Sombrero.  There were beautiful, well landscaped properties on this quiet little oasis.

The houses were nice and not overwhelming like the ones we saw in Naples (although this little paradise could easily become a place for the rich and famous if it were discovered!).

When we came back from our little adventure, Tom (Q's End) was reeling in a little barracuda.

It was fun watching him avoid the little guys teeth.  He did a good job with his 'catch and release'.  The little fellow swam away with his brothers and sisters.  I kept watch for his momma, but she never showed up.

Jerry, Joan, Todd and I decided to take our bikes down to Key Fisheries and try their Stone Crab Claws.  Stone crabs are in season right now.  The Keys Fisheries offers the claws for $1.25 each which is a great deal here in the Keys.

The bar hostess educated us how to get into these little delicacies.

They were sooooooooo good...we knew we'd be back for more on another day.

We were treated to another wonderful sunset.

Day #171: 01/30/2011 (Sunday):

Todd and I went to church at St. Columba.  It was a wonderful service with many travelers in the pews.  The rector, Rev. Debra Maconaughey, gave a vibrant sermon ending it with many thoughts from her heart to ours.  She's an amazing woman and has done many exciting things for the Middle Keys through the church.  During the announcements, Rev. Debra mentioned there was a group of interested members going to the Marathon Turtle Hospital at 1PM.  We eagerly signed up during coffee in the parish hall. 

On our way to the Turtle Hospital, we saw an OPEN HOUSE sign in front of Tranquility Bay, a collection of condos in a beautiful little community with two pools, two beaches, a Tiki Hut Bar and Grill and a restaurant.  I felt like I had found what I was looking for here in the Keys.  Todd quickly took me next door to the Turtle Hospital!

The Turtle Hospital is a huge rescue center for injured, diseased and displaced sea turtles.  We learned so much about these huge reptiles.  They are not social in anyway.  They live independently throughout their lives from birth to death.  The Keys are home to Loggerhead, Green, Hawksbill, and Kemp’s Ridley Sea Turtles.  Currently the hospital his home to or treating all of these species.  Many of the turtles they treat can be released safely back into their natural habitat.  Those that are permanently injured and cannot sustain life in the open ocean are kept at the hospital or sent to other teaching facilities that will care for them in a natural, safe setting.  I took many pictures of their surgery suite, their xray department and their rehabilitation area complete with an intensive care unit.  Unfortunately these pictures all reside on my Droid Smartphone until I figure out how to download them into my hard drive without passing them through Facebook first.

 Day #172: 01/31/2011 (Monday) and the beginning of our second week in Marathon:

Todd and I had not yet found Sombrero Beach so Monday was dedicated to that expedition.  We loaded out bikes with a cooler and our beach bag...and off we went.

Sombrero Beach is the only large public beach in Marathon.  There are other beaches, most of which are private in condo complexes or resort settings.  One other beach is in the Curry Hammock State Park on Little Crawl Key and too far away from our marina.  Besides, Sombrero Beach was beautiful, clean, had excellent bathroom facilities and was big enough for all the people that had gathered there to enjoy the day. 

Day #173: 02/01/2011 (Tuesday):

Tuesday Joan, Jerry, Todd and I decided to go to Sombrero Beach by dinghy.  Besides we all wanted to explore up the canals.

The homes were big and beautiful.  This one was along Sombrero Road with the golf course in front and the canal behind.

The homes had manicured landscaping and beautiful sculptures.  It was hard to pick up the bronze statues without a good zoom lens.

This big fishing boat was outside of the house in the picture above.  There was a sign on the other side of the boat advertising it as a charter for fishing.  From the size of the house, the owner is either VERY good as a charter OR he charters as a hobby.

Further down Sister Creek, this house was actually two very big houses connected by a long covered walkway.  We decided one of the two houses was either a mother-in-law's cottage or a guest house.  Either way, the occupants were put a great distance from the main house!

At long last, we found the beach.  Joan and Jerry from NII Wishin are enjoying the beautiful sunshine in this picture.

Oh yes, we enjoyed that sunshine, too!

On the way back to the boat, I had to capture this statue.  I guess it was a fisherman pulling in a net.  He must not have done too well with his fishing.  He was naked as a jaybird!  The statue was huge standing at least 9 or 10 feet tall.

Day #175: 02/03/2011 (Thursday):

Wednesday was a work day.  Yes, some days are dedicated to paying bills, washing clothes and other duties that continue to occur whether you are at home or on the water.  So, after a day of work we planned a play day for Thursday.  Joan, Jerry, Todd and I decided it might be fun to take the bikes to the far west end of Marathon and work our way back to the boats, eating an appetizer and drinking a beer at each of the restaurants (and Tiki Huts) we had either heard about or visited and liked.

On the way to our first stop, we came across a street named for OB!

Our first stop was Burdine's, where we'd seen that Marathon sign on the way into Marathon.

Todd, Jerry and I at the mermaid fountain in front of Burdine's.

Thank you, Marathon, for taking good care of us those 35 years.  She's financing this fantastic adventure.

Jerry, Todd and I waiting for our order of fries and beers.  Thank you, Joan, for taking all these pictures.  Burdine's was listed as having the best fries in Marathon (Florida, that is)...and they were good.

The next stop was Porky's.  We had eaten here the night before.  They were supposed to have amazing BBQ ribs...and they were awesome.

Today we decided on Fried Mushrooms with our beer...and they were amazing, as well.

Next stop was Tranquility Bay...the quiet condo establishment that I fell in love with on Sunday afternoon.  This was the reception building for folks renting condos.  It also housed a nice little restaurant.

Today we were going to the Tiki Hut on the beach at Tranquility Bay.

Joan decided she like it here too...but neither of us could talk the boys into buying a condo for us.

I tried tying myself to one of the rocking chairs on the front porch of the reception building.  That didn't work either.

Next stop was the Keys Fisheries.  Joan, Jerry and Todd had some more of their stone crab claws.  I had a dozen steamers...and they were sooooooo good!

Our final stop was at the Hurricane Bar and Grill...for $0.25 wings.

The rest of the week was spent taking lazy dinghy rides at sunset, catching up some more shopping and chores before leaving for our next port.  We met more extended cruisers at church and on the dock.  Cruisers are constantly coming and going.  Many of the folks we met were on their way to Boca Raton or Stuart to stage for crossing to the Bahamas.  We knew we would catch up with many of them again somewhere along the way.