Great Loop Date: 09.29 & 30.2010 (Wednesday & Thursday): Just a Little Diversion…

Days #48 & 49: 1338.6 total miles (109.7 & 87.3 miles)
Locks: 10 total (today: 0)
Port #22 – Little Diversion Channel; Cape Girardeau, MO
Port #23 – Ohio River Dam #52; Metropolis, IL

When the crew arose, the Mississippi was shrouded in fog. OB would take on a series of tight curves in the river soon after leaving Hoppies. The flotsam had not changed from what we endured Tuesday. With all this in mind, all four boats decided to wait out the fog and start later than the intended 6:30AM cast off.

The captains from Sea Estate, NII Wishin, Windsong and OB gathered in a cluster on the dock. They reviewed the planned course, discussed the dense fog at the first corner just a half mile down river, and enjoyed discussing many other off topics. It was definitely a time to relax before going into the navigational nightmare once more.

Finally just after 9AM the fog lifted and the crews from all four boats began the process of cast off. With the strong current of the Mississippi, we all had docked with our bows upstream. We would have to make a 180 degree turn to head downstream as well as dodge all of the debris that was flowing down the river.

The captains decided it would be best for the last boat in the line to leave first. Sea Estate, who had been last, would be first today. The next to last was NII Wishin’ and would follow after giving sufficient time for Sea Estate to clear the mid-channel. Windsong, the mastless catamaran, would be next and OB would be the caboose.

It wasn’t long before we came to our first upbound barge…then another…then another. I really should have counted barges but they became so usual and so frequent, there was no mystery or magic to them anymore. All of the barge captains were very courteous to us. They did keep us on the outside of all the curves in the river which Fern had told us was a huge no-no. Fortunately we had no problems navigating these turns. The barge tows did kick up a lot of debris and send it into our paths.

Around 11AM we were navigating through a debris field. OB hit a big log that couldn’t be avoided in a last minute maneuver. The log hit the bow with a big thud! I ran through the boat to listen for it to come under the props. I saw it leave from the starboard side but didn’t feel any shift or shudder. Todd and I both hoped there was no damage as OB marched on without complaint.

I continued scouring the shoreline for navigational markers. I did discover why I couldn’t find them the day before. Most of the time, the markers are obscured by trees and bushes. It was like trying for find Waldo! I became more proficient at picking them out and finally felt like the firstmate once again.

Mid-day we passed the ‘Home of Popeye’. Chester, IL Boat Club has a huge sign testifying to that fact calling Chester ‘Popeye City’. Connie mentioned this little tidbit over the VHF radio. She also said we would pass the home of Superman the next day!

The current on the Mississippi continued to pick up throughout the day and the debris seemed less. We still had to play dodge ‘em but managed to avoid any more encounters. At the close of the day, we entered Little Diversion Channel just off the Mississippi River and downstream from Cape Girardeau, MO. There are no ports along this stretch of the Mississippi, the Ohio and the beginning of the Tennessee Rivers.

OB made good anchor just as the sun was setting. It became a beautiful, starry, and quiet night. Sitting in this little pool, it was impossible to know we were just a quarter mile or so off of the Mighty Mississippi.

The next morning, OB’s crew was up and at it before dawn. Early rising was becoming more of a habit than any of us enjoyed. We needed to get the final stretch of the Mississippi behind us. The Ohio River lay in wait.

Todd maneuvered OB out of Little Diversion just as the sun was above the horizon. We continued to run in the pecking order of the day before. The sun on the water made navigating frustrating but somehow we missed any debris.

Before noon, we were rounding the turn into the blue Ohio River. Todd had learned some years ago there was a distinct demarcation between the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers. He was not disappointed. Unfortunately this confluence is a huge staging area for barges traveling both rivers. A barge crossed in front of us and muddied up the line before we could take a picture at the actual crossing. I did get many pictures before we crossed into the Ohio.

Although the Ohio was much cleaner and only had a stray log once in a while, the scenery continued to be about the same. We passed many barges. The river banks were heavily forested and beginning to show fall color. OB continued to putter along slower now because we were moving upstream instead of downstream.

Navigating became more difficult. Todd had electronic charts but we had no paper charts. We had searched everywhere for the Army Corp of Engineer charts for the Ohio and the Tennessee Rivers. There were none to be found. Other Loopers have found the same problem.

Also, now that we were going upstream, the buoys reversed sides with red nuns on the right now and green cans on the left. While we were on the Illinois and the Mississippi we were downbound with the red nuns on our left and green cans on our right. Confused yet? You’re not alone. It is something we have to stay aware of in order to stay in the channel and in water of sufficient depth.

We passed by Dam and Lock 53 which used to be functional. It has been torn out. A new dam and lock complex, the Olmstead Dam and Lock has been under construction to replace Dam and Lock 53 and 52. It is a huge undertaking with big cranes and equipment spread out over nearly a mile.

By sunset we reached our second anchorage in as many days. This time we anchored in the Ohio River, off of the main channel near Metropolis, IL and Lock & Dam 52. Todd and I were a bit nervous. There was a stiff breeze from the northwest and a good current from the southeast. The current was stronger. Sea Estate and NII Wishin’ had gotten a good bite with their anchors and encouraged us along. I used a 10# mushroom anchor at the end of my 50 foot of chain and before the rode of line. The fast setting Delta took a good grab, the mushroom kept the chain low to the river floor and I used about 50 foot of rode to help us stay put.

The winds died out at sunset. We had another peaceful night at anchor. I was surprised I slept so soundly when I had been concerned at the beginning. We are becoming comfortable with each experience in the adventure.

Oh yes, and then there is Charlie…the ‘I’ll never do my duty on plastic grass’ dog. After twenty six hours of holding on, giving me the ‘I need to set foot on land’ signal multiple times and feeling totally miserable, Charlie marched out to the plastic patch of green and went for a long, long time. We were so excited and he was amazed how easy it was. After that first tentative ‘squirt’, he now marches out to HIS grass and relieves himself whenever the need arises. Charlie has become a boat dog!



We were seeing more beautiful limestone bluffs and hints of fall colors...when we could look.

 

The barges get larger and larger...this one is 5X6 or 30 strong.



These are empty containers...still daunting on the curves in the river.

Look at that wake!  Those weren't fun.  Neither was the wood you can see floating in the lower left corner.

The current grew stronger the further we traveled down the Mississippi.

Popeye's home.  Somehow it doesn't look like it did in the cartoons.  He even had Dish TV!

This is 'Where's Waldo'...where is the starboard daymarker?

Okay...a little closer look.

There it is !!!

So much coal is loaded on these barges in this country.  Do we really think we will be free of fossil fuel someday?

This one is 28 barges strong...4X6+1X4 !

This port day marker was on the side of a dead tree...soon to be flotsam.

Coming into Cape Girardeau, the cliffs became more severe and beautiful.

Our anchorage off the Mississippi in Little Diversion Channel...just southeast of Cape Girardeau, MO.

NII Wishin, Sea Estate and Windsong waking up after a quiet night at anchor.

This grain barge was being loaded as we passed.  Does it look a little heavy on one end?

Another 'Where's Waldo?' looking for a starboard (green) daymarker.

There it is !  Really sticks out doesn't it?

How about this one?  It's a little easier.

Yes, there it is.

The Mighty Mississippi meets the Ohio...look at the marked difference between the two!

The line between the two was a little stirred up by the barge that passed by.

NII Wishin hits the Ohio...notice we are now going against the current.

Of course, there were barges everywhere.  This is at Cairo, MO, a huge staging area for barges.

This is the new Olmstead Lock and Dam under construction.  It will replace two very old ones on the Ohio.

Another coal powered Power Plant.

This barge was headed downstream in the wind.  Looks at the waves he's breaking through as he goes.

Sea Estate at anchor in the Ohio River just past the bridge going to Metropolis, IL.

NII Wishin' anchored.  The wind and waves eventually died down.

Great Loop Date: 09.28.2010 (Tuesday): Hopalong Cassidy Never Did This!

Day #47: 1141.6 total miles (44.4 miles 5.45 hours)
Locks: 10 total (today: 2)

Port #21 – Kimmswick, MO

Not many folks will remember the tales of Hopalong Cassidy. None of his adventures involved the Mississippi River or any of the area we are traveling. However, we do have two things in common…adventure and…you’re about to find out the rest.

This would be the third day in a row for OB running her engines. We were glad to be with our Looper-mates again. They had already spent 3 days in Alton and it was time for them to mosey on. So ‘on’ we went.

We could see our first Mississippi Lock from the Alton Marina. There was some concern among all of us about the water level. Stations south of us were reporting at or near flood level conditions, but the levels were falling. I called the Lock for a report and the lockmaster checked ahead all the way to the Ohio River. His findings were encouraging.

I was finishing up some chores on OB when Sea Estate called to say the lock was open. We were going while the going was good. Windsong, another Looper boat joined us for the ride.

Windsong with Jay and Joan is from Massachusetts. The boat is a Catamaran sailboat. The mast was stepped and shipped from Calumet with Surona’s mast. We spent 10 lovely days with Surona in Leland. They were still behind us by a port or two.

The locking was fast. OB was lowered 12 feet in this lock. A tug locked through with us, which probably helped our priority order.

I noticed a lot of ‘big wood’ (logs and limbs) in the lock with us. These pieces of flotsam can cause problems with props too. Todd did very well navigating us out of harm’s way.

Out of the lock we were in a channel running beside the Mississippi River. Cruising was comfortable. We saw a log or two here and there but nothing major to cause us distress.

OB came upon Dell Butcher again in the channel. He was still 3X5 strong. The captain sent us along his starboard side to pass (one whistle).

The tug stayed with us to the second and final lock for the Mississippi. We were told we’d have a one hour wait. The tug obviously helped us again. We were soon in and out of this lock. As we exited, there were two tows and a paddlewheel riverboat jockeying for who would be next going upbound!

Sitting in Alton camouflaged how near St. Louis really was. Straight out of the second lock we could see the Arch behind the upcoming bridges. I kept busy marking off the bridges and power lines on the Army Corps River Maps and shooting pictures of the developing St. Louis downtown skyline.

I was becoming concerned because I couldn’t find any of the daymarkers that appeared on the Army Corps Maps. Worse yet, more flotsam appeared in the river. On top of that, the current had really become strong, sending us down the river at 12 to 13 mph.

OB’s engines were only running about 1000 rpm. In calm water without current, 1000 rpm might get OB to 7.8 mph. We had little time to be amazed with so much going on around us!

After we passed St. Louis, there were no bridges to use as locations for navigating the maps. I started looking for creeks feeding into the Mississippi. I also looked for high electrical wires coming across. Plus I was now helping Todd spot the flotsam.

To make matters worse, the barge traffic had become very heavy. The barges had become much bigger. I was counting 4X5 and 4X6.

The captains were very courteous and directing us as we announced our position. However, those going upstream were making huge wakes and sending more flotsam our way. Todd decided we couldn’t dodge everything so would decide what wouldn’t hurt the props and what might sail past us in our stream.

OB did take one good ‘thump’. It scared the dickens out of both of us. OB churned on without vibration. We sighed with some relief but not totally convinced we were okay.

We began seeing trees floating in the current. I had to entertain myself with what was in the water so I wouldn’t totally come apart. I saw more than one telephone pole, a basketball, some tires, a few barrels, lots of big pieces of Styrofoam. I wished all the trees and telephone poles would turn into Styrofoam and basketballs!

Our stop today was at the famous Hoppies in Kimmswick, MO. Anyone bringing pleasure boats down the Mississippi stops overnight at Hoppies. The facility is two large barges held to shore with huge cables. It is the only stopping place between Alton and anchorages almost 200 miles away.

After two and a half hours navigating around virtual forests in the water, we were so darn glad to see those two barges appear before us. Fern and Bill (Hoppie) Hopkins, the owners of the barge resort, bring in each and every boat from the mighty river in their yard. Fern takes the bow line, Hoppy takes the midship line and comes aft to grab the stern. They baby every one of their boaters.

These aren’t young kids, Fern and Hoppie. Fern is 83 this year and Hoppie just doesn’t say. Every day at 4:30PM, Fern gives the boaters a seminar on the rest of the Mighty Mississippi, pointing out upcoming obstacles and dangerous curves in the river. She tells everyone how to work with the barge captains to get the best and safest position with passing. Fern is a walking legend…and a wonderful river woman.

Before the afternoon report, Connie from Sea Estate and I walked into Kimmswick. It’s a cute little town full of shops and boutiques. I bought some landfill fodder (a couple of necklaces and a bracelet). We both had a good ice cream cone of Rocky Road. Our more than enough adventure for one day was behind us. We didn’t even mention it in conversation.

While we were in town, Todd, Ed (Sea Estate) and Jerry (NII Wishin’) fixed two of our problem doors. The salon door and the starboard pilothouse door opened with one finger. It was so easy, it scared the poor dog!

After the work was done, we all relaxed, watched the forests pass by the boat, knew we’d be seeing it all again in the morning and wished a miracle would happen to take it all away during the night.

How does Hopalong Cassidy play into this part of the adventure? Bill (Hopalong) Cassidy was nicknamed Hoppy. It came to mind as soon as I heard about Hoppies and Bill (Hoppie) Hopkins. Most of the movies were known as ‘Hoppies’. May 26, 1951 an amusement park named Hoppyland opened in the Venice section of Los Angeles. It didn’t do well and closed in 1954.
I am old enough that I did see some of the Hoppies. When I was a kid, we had a toad that lived outside our back door in Tulsa. We named him Hopalong Cassidy. After a few years, he disappeared and never came back. However, Hoppies in Kimmswick will be around forever…a little oasis taking care of tired and tried boaters.

Before the first lock of the day, we passed another paddlewheeler turned gambler on our port side.

Next up we passed this Marathon tow.  Todd was really excited to see something from the company.

Then there were more upbound barges.

This was good ol' Dell Butcher again.  We passed him on the way to the second lock.  That would be our last lock on the Mississippi.

Windsong, Sea Estate and NII Wishin. getting into passing position to take on ol' Dell B.

The last lock...Lock #27.  The tow has his pushing bow against the wall and that's how he took the lock.

The Spirit of Peoria was on her way upbound.  I wondered if it really was going to Peoria.  Long trip ahead if that were so.

Our first Arch sighting through the bridge.

This was amazing to us...not the Arch but the Petroleum Gas Tank in the middle of the picture.  Clear as day there was an image of a cross shining in the sunlight!  We were blessed that day with no damage to OB.

The downtown St. Louis skyline becomes evident.

Another steamer turned gambler...the Admiral..

The Arch and the Admiral.

Finally right in front of the Arch...an awesome sight.

This barge picked up some of what was ahead of us!

This was a smaller barge.  Part of the traffic problem became the barges along the river banks waiting to be staged.

Upbound barges demonstrated the river current well.  We were glad NOT to be pushing that water.

There's the wake!

More traffic...

...more wakes!

This was my last shot because the flotsam began to be more conscentrated.

Jumping forward to our trip into Kimmswick.

Such a cute little town.

We passed this wall and grounds on the way to and from Kimmswick from Hoppies.  It reminded me of some of the sights on Kelley's Island.

More of the wall in the last shot.

They had a 'Watch Cat' too!

The famous Hoppies from land.

We were on the first barge...with Fern's golf cart.

Flotsam...

...more flotsam...

...still more flotsam...

...get the idea?  This was continuous...not just a little here and there.  It amazed us all!